Wednesday, April 9, 2014
Gastrointestinal parasite infestation is one of the most common and most dangerous conditions that negatively impact equine health. A heavy dose of parasites will keep an adult animal from thriving and a foal from developing normally. Horse wormers kill internal worms; both chemical and natural formulas are available. Because there are many different organisms to fight and because varying the formula for successive treatments is recommended, it's important to know the options and how each product works.
The number of organisms that live at least part of their lifespan inside horses is daunting. There are large and small strogyles, tapeworms, bots, and ascarids (roundworms). Less common but still potential problems are lungworms, threadworms, pinworms, hairworms, and large-mouth stomach worms. Fecal and blood tests can tell owners which parasites are present in their animals' systems.
Owners can often tell if a horse is 'wormy' by its appearance and actions. If there is a serious infestation, the animal will be lethargic and hard to keep weight on, with frequent bouts of colic or diarrhea. The coat will be rough and dull, and the tail may be rubbed at the top.
It's a good idea to know which parasites are a threat to your horses and how best to approach the problem. The time of year can be significant; for example, bot flies are only around to lay their eggs in summer. Climate can matter, as well as the state of your pasture. Overgrazing can cause a greater reinfection problem, for example.
There are many mild chemical worming agents as well as natural ones. Formulas are usually effective against only certain parasites; check the label to see which ones will be eliminated. Ivermectin has become popular because it works on many of the most common organisms. Vets often recommend rotating brands of wormer to get full coverage.
Alternative means include pasture management as well as herbal formulas and homeopathy. Rotating pasture is always helpful; it's best if horses are off a field for six months to give larvae a chance to die off. Mowing exposes larvae to predators, as does dragging to break up manure piles. The best way to keep pastures free of parasites is to pick up droppings. Of course, bot flies lay their eggs on the horse rather than in droppings, so you still need to be careful.
There are several natural worming products made for horses. Feeding diatomaeceous earth - mixing it in moistened grain - is another way to get many internal free-loaders. This method is good for very old animals who may become sensitive to chemical formulas. Commercial products include pastes, one-day pelletized formulas, and daily worming pellets to sprinkle on feed (to prevent reinfection as well as address actual infestation).
Worming on a regular schedule is important for maintaining health and vitality. Even if one test shows no worms in the animal, six months later it can be a different story. Some owners give a wormer twice a year, while others do so every two months. There are also daily preventatives that are added to the feed.
It's important to know why, when, and how to worm animals. Parasites are the most common problem for horses, but they are also easy to control with proper procedures and effective products.
The number of organisms that live at least part of their lifespan inside horses is daunting. There are large and small strogyles, tapeworms, bots, and ascarids (roundworms). Less common but still potential problems are lungworms, threadworms, pinworms, hairworms, and large-mouth stomach worms. Fecal and blood tests can tell owners which parasites are present in their animals' systems.
Owners can often tell if a horse is 'wormy' by its appearance and actions. If there is a serious infestation, the animal will be lethargic and hard to keep weight on, with frequent bouts of colic or diarrhea. The coat will be rough and dull, and the tail may be rubbed at the top.
It's a good idea to know which parasites are a threat to your horses and how best to approach the problem. The time of year can be significant; for example, bot flies are only around to lay their eggs in summer. Climate can matter, as well as the state of your pasture. Overgrazing can cause a greater reinfection problem, for example.
There are many mild chemical worming agents as well as natural ones. Formulas are usually effective against only certain parasites; check the label to see which ones will be eliminated. Ivermectin has become popular because it works on many of the most common organisms. Vets often recommend rotating brands of wormer to get full coverage.
Alternative means include pasture management as well as herbal formulas and homeopathy. Rotating pasture is always helpful; it's best if horses are off a field for six months to give larvae a chance to die off. Mowing exposes larvae to predators, as does dragging to break up manure piles. The best way to keep pastures free of parasites is to pick up droppings. Of course, bot flies lay their eggs on the horse rather than in droppings, so you still need to be careful.
There are several natural worming products made for horses. Feeding diatomaeceous earth - mixing it in moistened grain - is another way to get many internal free-loaders. This method is good for very old animals who may become sensitive to chemical formulas. Commercial products include pastes, one-day pelletized formulas, and daily worming pellets to sprinkle on feed (to prevent reinfection as well as address actual infestation).
Worming on a regular schedule is important for maintaining health and vitality. Even if one test shows no worms in the animal, six months later it can be a different story. Some owners give a wormer twice a year, while others do so every two months. There are also daily preventatives that are added to the feed.
It's important to know why, when, and how to worm animals. Parasites are the most common problem for horses, but they are also easy to control with proper procedures and effective products.
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